Top pic: Front on view of the buggy 2nd pic: Front bay area, with F-R switch and master circuit breaker with ignition switch underneath. Circuit breaker can cope with 48V 1000A continous. In on postion, power is supplied to the hazard warning lights circuit1 but nothing else. With ignition on, power is supplied to rest of 12V circuits and contactor interlock. You cannot move the buggy without the ignition on. Also you can see the handbrake between the seats above. 3rd pic: Righ side dashboard. To make these dashes, I cut out 3mm thick clear acrylic that was covered in protective film both sides. Then you drill your mounting holes, and panel cutouts for the instruments/sockets etc. Finally, remove the rear film, spray with paint, then remove the front film. You get a great looking shiny finish! 4th pic: The main 12v electronics. There is a whole panel here with a load of 36-72V input, 12V output DC-DC converters, relays, fuses and connectors for the 12V electrics. I have full headlamps, indicators, rear lamps, reverse, fog etc. The whole unit accepts anything from 72V to 30V DC input and is generic. I'll post full circuit diagrams and parts list for anyone interested.
I'm 33, married, and have my own company working in materials science research. I've got a PhD from UCL in materials science, and a BSc in Biochem so am a bit of a science all rounder! I live in Oxfordshire, UK with my wife my hobbies are building and restoring electric vehicles - the next project I want to do after this one is a fast solar boat!
Top pic: Front on view of the buggy
ReplyDelete2nd pic: Front bay area, with F-R switch and master circuit breaker with ignition switch underneath. Circuit breaker can cope with 48V 1000A continous. In on postion, power is supplied to the hazard warning lights circuit1 but nothing else. With ignition on, power is supplied to rest of 12V circuits and contactor interlock. You cannot move the buggy without the ignition on. Also you can see the handbrake between the seats above.
3rd pic: Righ side dashboard. To make these dashes, I cut out 3mm thick clear acrylic that was covered in protective film both sides. Then you drill your mounting holes, and panel cutouts for the instruments/sockets etc. Finally, remove the rear film, spray with paint, then remove the front film. You get a great looking shiny finish!
4th pic: The main 12v electronics. There is a whole panel here with a load of 36-72V input, 12V output DC-DC converters, relays, fuses and connectors for the 12V electrics. I have full headlamps, indicators, rear lamps, reverse, fog etc. The whole unit accepts anything from 72V to 30V DC input and is generic. I'll post full circuit diagrams and parts list for anyone interested.